CUADERNO DE VIAJE Nº 7, AGRA 8 NOV 2010

Llegamos a Agra a las 2 del mediodía. Ya no estamos en Rajastán, ahora estamos en un estado que se llama Uttar Pradesh.
Este estado alardea de riqueza histórica, ciudades magníficas, lugares turísticos maravillosos y unas tradiciones y cultura únicas. Es el cuarto estado mas grande del país. La verdad es que la ciudad era un poco desastre. Basuras y basuras por todas partes. Intentamos visitar Fatehpur Sikri, que una vez fué la capital del Imperio Mogol en el siglo 16, ahora ciudad fantasma. Fué abandonada por sus ocupantes solo 15 años mas tarde debido a una insuficiencia del suministro de agua. Nos marchamos de la zona porque había muchísimos "cazaclientes"...aquí se les llama "hombres lapa" y no nos dejan ni un segundo.

1. To move from Jaipur to Agra meant to spent another 4 hours and a half in the car with a disturbing traffic...well these days the traffic is not "mortal" anymore, we´re getting used to it, thank god by the moment we leave our last destination traffic doesn´t catch our attention anymore and we were able to admire the wonderful landscape.
2. We arrived in Agra by 2.00 p.m. We were not in Rajasthan anymore but in another state called Uttar Pradesh.
3. This state boasts of a rich history, magnificent cities, amazing tourist sites and unique traditions and culture. Uttar Pradesh is the fourth largest state in the country. The city was a bit of a disaster, garbage and more garbage everywhere. We tried to visit Fatehpur Sikri, a city that was once the proud capital of the Mughal Empire in the 16th century. Now, it stands deserted as wa well preserved ghost town. It was abandoned by its occupants after only 15 years due to an insufficient water supply. We left that area because we were a bit annoyed from all the "customer hunters" around, they are called "limpet men", they are behind you all the time.

El hotel no podía ser mas bonito. Si no llega a ser por las vistas que tengo desde mi habitación una no se cree que está enfrente del Taj Mahal

1. The hotel couldn´t be more beautiful. If it wasn´t for the view I had from my room, I didn´t believe I was opposite the Taj Mahal.

Después de descansar un rato del viaje, nos fuímos a hacer un masaje ayurvédico antes de cenar. Madre mía, eso si que fué un acierto. Los masajes ayurvédicos son parte de la terapia del mismo nombre. Al igual que una máquina debe estar siempre engrasada, al cuerpo le gusta tener la piel hidratada, por eso es que se usan aceites en los masages de este tipo. El placer es difícil de explicar, es un arte sublime, se combina el movimiento con aceites, música y técnicas de trabajo corporal, que dan como resultado un equilibrio entre el cuerpo y la mente que se hace a través del aceite de masaje.

1. After we rested for a while, we had an appointment for an ayurvedic massage. Ayurvedic massage is a key part of Ayurvedic therapy. Jast as a machine needs to be oiled, the body loves to have its largest organ, the skin, soothed, which is why oils are commonly used in this kind of massages. It´s very difficult to write what I felt there, it´s a sublime art combining skilled knowledge of the body with knowledge of oils, music and bodywork techniques resulting in a profound art for balancing the body and mind through the medium of oil massage.

Y oliendo a bergamota y flores nos fuímos a cenar. Un camarero me ve sacar fotos y me explica amablemente desde cómo marinar un langostino con yogurt hasta como funciona un horno Tandoor y me trae una copia del menú con su explicación en inglés que guardo para siempre. La verdad es que si digo que la gente en todo el viaje ha sido amable, me quedo corta. Encima, nos trae dos platos para probar que no habíamos pedido. El primero un Papri Chaat, unas obleas de trigo con yogurt y chuney de tamarindo que estaba delicioso, se te deshacía en la boca. Y el segundo un Dahi Bhalla, bolitas de masa de lenteja con chutney de mango, otra delicia la verdad.

1. And with the scent of bergamot and flowers on our skins we went to have dinner. A waiter saw me taking pictures of the food and kindly explained to me many things like how to marinate shrimps with yogurt or how Tandoor works and he came with a copy of the menu, with all the explanations in English so I could take it home with me, I still have it and will forever. The truth is that if I say people is kind in India, I would fall short. The waiter brought us two plates to try we didn´t order. The first one was a Papri Chaat, whole wheat watfers in yoghurt with tamarind chutney, wow this was gorgeous, melt in the mouth recipe. And the second, Dahi Bhalla, which were lentil dumplings in yoghurt with mango chutney, another deli really.

Los platos de aquí arriba fueron extras porque tomamos además un Tandori Raan, un cordero con especias y de postre nos tomamos un Phirnee o arroz con leche además de otros dos postres que nos regaló, un Kesari Rasmalai, un helado Indio de leche aromatizada con azafrán y un mango y pistacho Kulfi. Entre el masage y la cena nos vamos a dormir relajados y descansados.

1. The recipes above were extra, because we had a Tandori Raan, which is lamb with spices and for dessert we had Phirnee or rice pudding besides two more desserts our waiter gave us as a present. A Kesari Rasmalai, an Indian ice cream with milk infused in saffron and a mango and pistachio Kulfi . With the massage and this dinner, we went to sleep happy and relaxed.

9 de Noviembre 2010
Si quieres ver el Taj Mahal cuando el mármol cambia de color con los primeros rayos de sol, hay que levantarse muy temprano. A las 6.00 de la mañana ya estábamos allí. Ya sabéis que a mí me gustan todas las historias relacionadas con el amor, el Taj Mahal cambia a primera hora de la mañana porque el sol toca la estructura del mármol y la convierte en un color rosado. Por la tarde es blanco puro y bajo la luz  de la luna, el Taj Mahal brilla como el oro. Se dice que los colores reflejan el estado de ánimo de la Reina.

1. 9th Nov 2010
2. If you want to see the Taj Mahal when the marble changes colour, you have to get up very early in the morning. By 6.00 a.m. we were already there. You know I love to hear the romantic side of any story I´m told, well Taj Mahal changes colour. As the first sun rays touch the white marble structure, it is pink and under the afternoon sun it is pure white, while the Taj Mahal glitters like gold under moonlight. It is said that the changing colours reflect the changing moods of the Queen.

Al rato ya iba cambiando de color.

1. As the time passed, it was changing its colour too.

Como iba diciendo, entramos primero en un patio exterior conocido como Chowk-i Jilo Khana, donde nos hicieron un control policial. Afortunadamente en esta época del año no había muchos turistas, todos los turistas que vimos durante el viaje estaban aquí en Agra.
La puerta principal del Tal Mahal, que es aproximadamente de 28 metros de altura, es de por si una obra de arte maravilloso. Tiene dos puertas talladas  a ambos lados, una se abre hacia el patio para recibir a los visitantes que llegan de las otras tres entradas y el otro lado se abre hacia el mausoleo de mármol. Tiene algunos versos coránicos inscritos en piedra negra sobre la superficie de mármol blanca que dicen "invitando a los visitantes al paraíso". En la parte alta de la puerta, se pueden ver dibujos florales con piedras semi preciosas. La entrada principal además ofrece una ilusión óptica a los visitantes, a medida que uno se acerca al Taj desde la entrada principal, parece que el mausoleo se mueve alojándose de tí.

1. As I was writing, we went into the outside patio known as Chowk-i Jilo Khana, were we were checked by local police. Fortunately, at this time of the year there weren´t many tourists in India, but all the tourists we found were here in Agra. 
2. The main gateway of Taj Mahal which is about 28 metres height, is a masterpiece of fine inlay work in itself. It has beautifully crafted doors on the two sides, one opening towards the court-yard side to recieve visitors from all three entry gates, and the other side opening towards the grand white marble Taj Mausoleum. Some quranic verses "inviting visitors into paradise", are nicely inscribed in black stone on the white marble surface. Top of the arches of Taj Mahal main gate are ornamented with floral patterns in semi precious and precious stones. The main gate also provides some nice optical illusion to the visitors, as one approaches the Taj from the main gate, the main mausoleum appears to be moviing further away from you.

El mausoleo fue construido en Agra entre 1631 y 1648 por orden del emperador Mogol Shah Yahan en memoria de su cuarta y favorita  mujer, Mumtaz Mahal, que murió al dar a luz a su decimocuarto hijo a la edad de 39 años. Se dice que se quedó tan triste cuando ella murió que el pelo se le volvió blanco en una noche. El Taj Mahal es una joya de arte musulmal en India y el mas admirado universalmente como una de las piezas patrimonio de la humanidad.

1. The mausoleum, built in Agra between 1631 ad 1648 by order of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his fourth favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal who died during the birth of her 14th child at the age of 39. They said he was so sad that his hair turned white during one night. The Taj Mahal is the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world´s heritage.

Los planes para todo el complejo se atribuyen a varios arquitectos de ese periodo, a pesar de que el arquitecto jefe fué probablemente Ustad Ahmad, un Indio descendiente de los Persas. Los 5 elementos principales de todo el complejo son la puerta principal, el jardín, la mezquita el jawab y el mausoleo (incluídos sus 4 minaretes).

1. The plans for the complex have been attributed to various architects of the period, though the chief architect was probably Ustad Ahmad, an Indian of Persian descent. The five principal elements of the complex are the main gateway, the garden, mosque, jawab and the mausoleum (including its four minarets).

Algunas curiosidades sobre el Taj Mahal.
Los arquitectos y artesanos del Taj Mahal eran virtuosos de las proporciones y como trucar a la vista. Cuando te vas acercando a la puerta principal, por ejemplo, el monumento parece impresionantemente grande y que está super cerca, pero de repente, a medida que te vas acercando, encoge en tamaño y se vuelve precisamente lo contrario de lo que estabas esperando. El mausoleo es de mármol blanco, con motivos florales con piedras preciosas y semi preciosas, es impresionante, no tenía palabras y no me cansé de mirarlo y mirarlo

1. Some curiosities about the Taj Mahal
2. The architects and craftsmen of the Taj Mahal were masters of proportions and tricks of the eye When ou frst approach the main gate that frames the Taj, for example the monument appears incredibly close and large. But as you get closer it shrinks in size, exactly the opposite of what you´d expect. 
3. The mauseleum was made of white and translucent marble, with many floral patterns and loaded with precious gems and stones.

El mito mas famoso es probablemente falso. De acuerdo con una leyenda popular, Shah Jahan quería desesperadamente que su mausoleo fuera una obra de arte exquisita y que no hubiera otro igual. Para asegurar que nadie pudiera copiar la belleza del Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan cortó las manos y arrancó los ojos de los artesanos que lo fabricaron. A pesar de que prevalece esta historia tan horrible, los historiadores no encontraron evidencia de esta historia, pero evidentemente ayuda a aumentar la tragedia romántica.

1. The most famour myth is probably false. Accordiing to a popular legend, Shah Jahan wanted desperately for the mausoleum to be an exquisite masterpiece without an equal. To ensure no one could recreate the Taj Mahal´s beauty, Shah Jahan supposedly severed the hands and gouged the eyes of the artisans and craftsmen. Despite the prevalence of this gruesomee tale, historians have found no evidence to support the story, though it does heighten the drama of the romantic tragedy.

Ambos cenotafios están vacíos. Dentro del Taj Mahal hay dos cenotafios, para Mumtaz y Shah, dentro de una cámara de ocho lados adornada con pietra dura, llena de piedras preciosas y celosía de mármol, pero estos maravillosos monumentos son simplemente para enseñar, los sarcófagos reales están en una habitación tranquila, sin visitas a nivel del jardín. Esta foto de debajo  no es mía.

1. Both of the cenotaphs are empty. Inside the Taj Mahal, the cenotaphs honoring Mumtaz and Shah are enclosed in an eight-sided chamber ornamented with pietra dura and a marble lattice screen. But the gorgeous monuments are just for show, the real sarcophagi are in a quiet room below, no visitors at garden level. This picture below is not mine.

Nos marchamos de aquí después de pasar dos horas paseando por los jardines con una paz increíble. Hay un silencio que ayuda, la gente respeta el lugar.

1. We left the place after spending two hours walking around the gardens feeling peace and calm. The silence helped of course and everybody respect the place.

¡Hora de desayunar de vuelta en el hotel! ¡Son las 8 de la mañana y parece mediodía!

1. Back to the hotel it was time for breakfast!, It was 8.00 a.m. and looks noon!!

Cuando terminamos el desayuno con Gajendra, nuestro guía, nos vamos a visitar el Fuerte de Agra o Fuerte rojo. Los trayectos en carretera son increíbles, ahora ya no vemos vacas por la mitad de la carretera, ahora son búfalos.

1. When we finished breakfast with Gajendra, our guide, we went to visit Agra´s fort or Red Fort. Our road was getting more and more interesting each time we drove, now we don´t see cows around but buffalos.

El Fuerte de Agra o el Fuerte Rojo de Agra es una atracción turística típica y obligada de hacer después de visitar el Taj Mahal. Hasta la mitad del siglo 17, este fuerte fué la residencia real de los Emperadores Mogoles. Mas tarde, la capital se trasladó a Delhi. El Fuerte es mas una ciudad amurallada. Hoy en día es una atracción turística importante y un icono de la cultura del país.

1. Agra Fort or Agra Red Fort, is an iconic tourist attraction ranking right below Taj Mahal. Until middle o 17th century, this fort was the royal residence of Mughal emperors. Later, the capital was shifted to Delhi. The fort is more of a walled city. Today, it stands as an important tourist attraction and icon of culture of the country.

Siempre recordaré India como una explosión de color.

1. I´ll always remember India as a colour explosion.

De acuerdo con la historia, había 500 edificios dentro del fuerte. Algunos decían que había mas de 1000 dentro durante el periodo Akbar. Muchos fueron destruídos por Shah Jahan para construír palacios de mármol y muchos fueron destruídos por los Británicos. Hoy en día solo 30 se mantienen de pié.
Los edificios mas importantes dentro del Fuerte son:

1. 
   
2. Shees mahal, el palacio de cristal con un vestidor hecho con paredes de espejo.
3. According to history, there were 500 buildings inside the fort. Some say there were more than thousand buildiings inside te fort during Akbar´s period. Many were destroyed by Shah Jahan to build marble palace and many were destroyed by British. Today, 30 buildings stand inside the fort.
4. Top buildings to visit inside the fort are:
5. Sheesh Mahal, the glass palace with a dressing room made with mirror walls.

Diwan I Am
Diwan I khas - el salón de audiencia donde se recibía a los invitados y Reyes

1. Diwan I khas - audience halll to welcome guests and Kings

Anguri Bagh - los jardines lujosos

1. Anguri Bagh - lush gardens

Khas Mahal - El Palacio de Mármol blanco

1. Khas Mahal - White marble palace

Mina Masjid - Una mezquita pequeña. La entrada está prohibida Nagina Masjid - La mezquita de las joyas usada por las mujeres de la corte.

1. Mina Masjid - A tiny mosque. Entry is prohibited. Nagina Masjid - Gem mosque used by ladies of the court.

1. And the Musamman Burj, the balcony facing the Taj Mahal.

1. The sandstone in the Palace also changes colour with the sun.

1. The emperor used to sleep in this room with several of his wives and it´s said that at the time they had to wake him up, as it wasn´t forbidden to do it directly, there were maids running back and forth behind those walls, wearing jingle anklets so the noise was similar to an alarm clock.

1. The white buildings there at the back is closed. It´s said that the souls of all the kidnapped women by the emperor are still alive and without rest. They told us that some tourist saw one of those women so that´s the reason they remain closed.

1. Our visit to the Fort ended up here. For more information about the Taj Mahal and the Fort here and here. But we wanted more that day, so we went to the cinema because somebody told us that it was really fun to go to the cinema in India, not because of the film we watched (we didn´t understand a single word) but looking at the people there. Families go together to the cinema, they speak on the mobile without any problem (the volume of the film is pretty high), people sing with the actors of the film, they feed their babies in the cinema. At some point, the film stopped and everybody went out....we were surprised, and Gajendra told us that people go out, buy food and go back to the film, so we did the same, bought some goodies and went back to enjoy the moment, the film was really long. We had a blast and we laughed a lot. Bollywood is a very important aspect in the popular culture in India. Bollywood is the biggest film industry in the world.

1. Tomorrow back to New Delhi to finish our last days of this trip. My next post will be my last travel notebook. This has been an awesome journey.

¡LISTO! / DONE!